Riding at night, I bump bump bump along with one eye on the road and another in sky, following a celestial map to Antsohihy. I am not relaxed- the road is just too bumpy, but I am at ease. I have come to trust Zou on these night time treks. My mind starts slipping toward a state of highways hypnosis until all I see is stars, low in the sky....
Zou slams on the breaks and kills the lights. We are surrounded by 100 zebus, each pair of eyes piercing my daze. As they trundle past, we share a few laughs about the power shift that has just occurred. In the day, Zou blasts his horn and screams past the two wheeled carts, but at night, our quatre-quatre surrenders to the zebu.
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