Life in Tana is becoming more comfortable all the time. As I get used to the energy of the city I am no longer overwhelmed by the smell, sound, and speed of activity. Compounded daily, however, urban life takes its toll on my senses and last weekend I was lucky enough to be offered an escape.
Three of us took a cotton candy pink Clio eastbound in search of greener hills and cleaner air. Our packs filled with old clothes, batteries, rice and beans, we walked about 20km through every colour and texture of mud, stopping to chat and play at villages along the way. On the trail I experienced my first thigh-deep river crossing, a welcome challenge after thigh deep mud. I laugh to think that I used to take my shoes off to cross the Kananasks’ pristine creeks.
The secondary purpose of our trip was to check up on the status of Ambodolangy, a village that had welcomed an American researcher a few years ago. Jacques had worked on irrigation systems for the rice fields and the only way to get an update was to walk in and see for ourselves. As it turns out, the systems are still in place but without capital for seeds, a lot of land remains uncultivated.
The village chief welcomed us with food and drink (which is of course just fancy talk for rice and rice water) and the chief’s son made room for us to sleep in his family’s home. We were eight plus chickens, a rooster and a cat in the bamboo hut, warmed by each other’s company and a small fire. Two girls treated us to a concert of traditional songs, and dozens gathered as we led the card game Uno.
After trading much of our wares for woven raphia mats, we said goodbyes and walked back to the road. Along the way, muddy wet and cold, we were welcomed in for a sugar cane coffee and boiled manioc, which fueled us for the last leg. Back at the main road, villagers laughed at our muddiness, but were grateful when we agreed to take a few sick kids to the hospital which was on our way.
When I reread my account of a great weekend in the hills, I realize that my experience is not unique and I suppose this is a good thing. Cross-cultural linkages are formed all the time, and there will always be good travel karma out there. Every community has its searchers and its open doors. I feel exceptionally privileged to have benefited from this reality once again, and I open my door to he or she that comes my way.
What's in season in Ambodolangy: Bananas
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment